Kerala is India in a different register — quieter, greener, more contemplative, and extraordinarily beautiful. It is a state of contrasts: tropical backwaters at sea level, misty tea plantations at altitude, golden beaches on the Arabian Sea, and ancient temple traditions that bear no resemblance to North Indian culture. For travellers who want India without the intensity of the north, Kerala is transformative.
Kochi: The Perfect Gateway
Most travellers enter Kerala through Kochi (Cochin), a port city with 500 years of Portuguese, Dutch, and British colonial heritage layered over ancient Keralan culture. Fort Kochi is one of India's most walkable and beautiful historic neighbourhoods — whitewashed colonial buildings, the iconic Chinese fishing nets along the waterfront, the Santa Cruz Basilica, and the Jewish Quarter's ancient synagogue in Mattancherry. Spend two nights here, eat well (the seafood is extraordinary), and take an evening Kathakali dance performance.
The Backwaters
The Kerala backwaters — a 900-kilometre network of canals, rivers, and lagoons running parallel to the coast — are one of India's most iconic landscapes. The classic experience is a houseboat (kettuvallam) cruise from Alappuzha (Alleppey): a converted rice barge with bedrooms, a kitchen, and a deck from which you watch village life unfold along the water's edge — women washing saris, fishermen casting nets, children waving from the banks.
A one-night houseboat stay is sufficient for most travellers. Book a certified "green" houseboat to ensure it disposes of waste responsibly.
Munnar: Hill Station and Tea Country
Three hours by road from Kochi, Munnar sits at 1,600 metres amid some of South Asia's most spectacular tea plantations. The rolling hills are carpeted in manicured tea bushes; the mornings are cool and misty; the air smells of eucalyptus. Stay two nights and take guided walks through the estates, visit the Tea Museum, and hike to Anamudi — the highest peak in peninsular India.
Munnar tea is distinctly earthy and astringent — quite different from North Indian chai varieties. Visit a factory for a tasting session and buy directly from source; the prices are excellent and quality is far higher than anything you will find in a tourist shop.
Kovalam and the Beaches
Kerala's southern beaches — Kovalam and Varkala (the latter with its dramatic clifftop setting) — offer India's finest swimming conditions for much of the year. Varkala is better for independent travellers; it has a more relaxed, mixed-nationality scene. Both offer excellent seafood restaurants, Ayurvedic massage, and sunset views.
Thekkady and Wildlife
The Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary near Thekkady is one of India's best-managed reserves — a boat safari on the lake gives sightings of elephants, gaur, and sambar deer. The surrounding spice plantations (pepper, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg) are fascinating to tour; many of India's chai spices have their roots in this landscape.
Ayurvedic Retreats
Kerala is the home of classical Ayurvedic medicine, and the state has hundreds of retreats ranging from authentic multi-week Panchakarma programmes to tourist-facing day spas. For genuine treatment, look for NABH-accredited centres with qualified Ayurvedic doctors rather than generic "spa" operations. Somatheeram, Niraamaya, and CGH Earth group properties are consistently excellent.
Best Time to Visit Kerala
October through February is the sweet spot — post-monsoon, the landscape is at its greenest and the weather is dry and warm without being oppressive. The southwest monsoon (June–August) brings dramatic rainfall to the coast and backwaters; the northeast monsoon (October–November) affects the northern coast. Munnar is cooler and pleasant year-round.