India is not a single climate — it is a continent of microclimates compressed into one country. The timing of your trip can make the difference between a transformative experience and a sweaty, rain-soaked slog. Here is how to read the calendar like a seasoned traveller.
The Three Broad Seasons
Winter (October–February) is peak season across most of India, and for good reason. Temperatures are comfortable across the plains, the skies are clear, and the light is extraordinary. This is the ideal window for the Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur), Rajasthan, Goa's beach season, and Kerala's backwaters. UK and US travellers who can travel in November or February will find slightly smaller crowds than the Christmas–January peak.
Summer (March–June) brings blistering heat to the plains — Delhi regularly hits 44°C in May. However, this is prime season for the Himalayas, Ladakh (road passes open from June), and hill stations like Shimla, Manali, and Darjeeling, where temperatures remain pleasant. Holi falls in March and is one of the most joyful festivals to witness anywhere on earth.
Monsoon (July–September) divides travellers into two camps. The rain brings flooding and disruption to some regions, but it also reveals India at its greenest and most dramatic. Kerala actually has two monsoons and is navigable much of the season. The Northeast states (Meghalaya, Assam, Sikkim) are lush and magical in the rains if you are prepared for mud. Budget travellers love monsoon for its lower hotel rates and quieter sites.
Regional Breakdown
Rajasthan shines from October through February. The desert is cold at night (pack a layer) but spectacularly photogenic by day. Jaisalmer's dunes glow gold in the winter sun.
Kerala and South India can be visited year-round, though the southwest monsoon (June–August) brings heavy rain to the coast. The backwaters and hill stations of Munnar are delightful from September onwards as the rains ease.
Himalayas and Ladakh are accessible from late May through September. Beyond September, high passes begin to close. Winter in Ladakh is brutally cold — for specialists only.
Varanasi is best visited in winter when the ghats at sunrise are wreathed in mist and chai vendors line every step. The summer heat along the Ganges plain is punishing.
Northeast India (Meghalaya, Assam, Nagaland) is best visited from November to April, particularly for wildlife (Kaziranga's rhinos) and cultural festivals like Hornbill (December).
Festival Timing
If you can align your trip with a major festival, do it. Diwali (October/November), Holi (March), Pushkar Camel Fair (November), and Dussehra are all extraordinary. Book accommodation many months ahead for festival periods — demand is intense.