Introduction
Before refined white sugar arrived at Indian doorsteps via the colonial trade routes, there was gur — raw, unrefined jaggery pressed into dark cakes and stored in earthen pots. Jaggery is what sweetened Indian chai for generations, and in every village across Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Punjab, and beyond, it still does. Gur chai carries a depth of sweetness that white sugar simply cannot offer — earthy, molasses-rich, with a slight smokiness that makes every sip feel like a memory of something warm and true.
This is not café chai. This is desi chai at its most honest — the kind your nani made, the kind that waited for you on cold winter mornings wrapped in a shawl, the kind that smells like home.
The Story
Jaggery has been produced in South Asia for at least two thousand years. Made by boiling raw sugarcane juice or date palm sap until it thickens and sets, jaggery retains its natural minerals — iron, potassium, magnesium — that are stripped away in the refining of white sugar. It is darker, richer, and considerably more complex in flavour.
In rural India, gur chai was a luxury saved for guests and celebrations. A cone of good jaggery placed before a visitor was a mark of respect and welcome. The chai itself would be made thick, sweet, and heavily spiced — a full experience in a small clay cup. Even today, in the dhabas (roadside eateries) of rural Punjab and UP, the best chai is still sweetened with gur.
How to Make
Step 1 — Infuse the spices. Pour the water into a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the bruised cardamom pods, grated ginger, and black peppercorns. Let this simmer for 2–3 minutes until you can smell the spices opening up — a warm, peppery, floral cloud will rise from the pan.
Step 2 — Brew the tea. Add the CTC tea leaves and let the mixture come to a full boil. The colour should turn a deep, dark amber-brown within a minute. CTC tea is key here — its small granules release bold, robust flavour quickly and hold up beautifully against the jaggery's intensity.
Step 3 — Add milk. Pour in the whole milk and bring everything to a brisk boil. Let it rise once, stir it down, and let it rise again — this double-boil technique creates a richer, more integrated chai.
Step 4 — Sweeten with gur. Reduce the heat to low and add the grated jaggery. Stir gently until fully dissolved. Do not let the chai boil vigorously after adding jaggery — a hard boil can make the jaggery separate and turn grainy. Keep the heat low and stir until silky.
Step 5 — Strain and serve. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer into two cups. Serve immediately. No garnish needed — gur chai speaks for itself.
Tips & Variations
Choosing your gur: Look for soft, moist jaggery with a rich brown colour. Pale or very hard jaggery is often over-processed and lacks depth. The best jaggery crumbles slightly between your fingers and smells like raw sugarcane in the sun.
For extra body: Add half a teaspoon of fennel seeds (saunf) to the spice infusion. Fennel adds a gentle anise sweetness that plays beautifully with the earthy jaggery.
Winter warming version: Double the ginger and add a tiny pinch of ground black pepper for a fiercely warming winter chai that clears the head and warms the chest.
Adrak-Gur Chai: Increase the ginger to a full inch piece and skip the cardamom — this bolder, simpler version is what you want when you are coming in from the cold.
Lactose-free: Gur chai works well with oat milk, which has a natural sweetness that complements jaggery. Add a splash of coconut milk for a richer texture.